From sense and nonsense of the project status
(Thomas Crouch / January 2011)
The following lines are to be understood as a kind invitation to think and discuss. This paper is intended as an open approach possibilities and limits of sport climbing in a purely ethical perspective and in the first part of a subject-specific context to the issue of project status of climbing routes " . Make
The overriding question I want to test the validity of the so often practiced the principle of the right catalogers of a route to the first commission (commission free).
This all is not so dry I would try to represent with much practical experience and examples and to argue.
I will start with a dream that fascinates me for several years and has always recurring.
It begins on a warm summer evening. I leave my apartment and do a few steps into it very well-known forest area. I walk completely relaxed on a hillside. I did so many times here (outside of my dreams). And I know euch versichern hier gibt’s nur Buchen und nicht mal etwas, was aussieht wie ein Felsen. Doch im Traum ist ja alles anders. Ich wende meinen Blick links bergauf. Und plötzlich, was sehe ich? Den Perfekten Fels. Mein Fels. Den hab ich schon immer gesucht. Ich beschreibe ihn kurz, damit jedermann weis wie ich ticke. Er befindet sich fünf Gehminuten von meiner Wohnung entfernt, ist nordseitig ausgerichtet (wegen dem Grip), hängt nach allen Seiten stark über, 30 Meter hat er auch an Höhe, eine Boulderhöhle gibt’s dazu und ist mit den unglaublichsten Strukturen übersäht, die man sich nur vorstellen kann. Wahrlich ein Traum! Mein erster Gedanke: „Schnell und heimlich einbohren.“ Damit, wenn fertig, the masterpiece of the public may be present. My eyes draw the Lien on the rock. In no time I know already, how and where the routes are bleeding. There are over twenty ascents, the difficulties of going to open end. A familiar thought process is played out in my head. Everything is running only on the look out of line. A crazy dream! But then, what I see: Hook! No, that can and can not be. And there: Above left, a fixed rope. Then, suddenly drilling noises. Like a driven I go into the matter. My dream is a nightmare. The last thing I noticed in my dream is that I recognize my good friend Dirk and greet him warmly. He has the whole rock furnished, free of course, the best lines already.
The question that arises here for me is: Have I lost something or won something?
can this still make a lot of questions such as why concerns me something, I'm such a Egoschwein that I use in the dreams must, or must I always be the first and I can shine only when I use the others present something of no one knew? And anyway, why not Dirk Rastas more? And what he does in my dreams? No matter.
The reason my account has been anticipated to provide a basis of my question, fill them with content.
Who really belongs Rock? No one, all or individual? If the object of desire on private property, so the question is easily answered. But once we see it from the perspective of our "climbing community": ... and it happened that one came along by chance gleam through the leaves of the forest looked like a little rock. He drilled a the best lines and ready. That was it. Now there was only cobwebs yet. Day by day no one came to rescue the projects. Many others harbored interest tours just want to climb.
Now the question arises whether the development has the right to the tours to climb first. If so, how long? I also wonder if it makes up something, whether Karl Heinz or Klaus Dietrich there first high power. Of course, counter to turn that Karl Heinz had a lot of work to set up the tours. And then come Klaus and his cronies and rock the things the other way. Since it is more than obvious that Karl is stinky. Karl also had huge financial expenses. The hook he had been forced to absparen from the mouth.
If I'm honest to myself, I have to confess the following. Had anyone else my best tours climbed ahead of me, then I would have annoyed the specific to a degree. I would have annoyed me twice. One is that I have not climbed quickly, and for others I would have been annoyed at myself. About my ego. After all, what's wrong with that? Stay loose Mr. Crouch! I really love a drill tours. I'm looking like rocks and then the lines. I do the cleaning and set the hook fun. The taste of each "virgin" features. It is a great experience. The whole process until the first red dot is a brilliant experience. But it can not be too great to be part of that process different? For example, the climb of the tour. We try out the moves together and who puts together the puzzle first, the first ascent. I am so as catalogers already come at my expense. The whole process was a lot of fun. The English and French before us make it so. In which there are kein Projektstatus. Die bohren ein und probieren. Kommt ein stärkerer und würde die Tour gerne versuchen, dann ist das kein Problem. Ich selber bin noch nicht auf dieser Ebene angelangt. Aber gerne würde ich da hinkommen. Gerne würde ich irgendwann einfach den egoistischen Schnürsenkel (der immer sagt: Finger weg, das ist mein Revier) im ersten Haken weg lassen. Vielleicht helfen mir ja diese Zeilen dabei, dem einen Schritt näher zu kommen.
Meiner Meinung nach schadet eine solche egoistische Einstellung der Athleten der Progression unseres Sports. Denn was passiert, wenn die Erschließer Jahrelang auf ihren Projekten herum glucken. Zum einen gibt es keine Veränderung und das ist schlecht für den Sport. Zum anderen manifestiert is an ethical, what is no longer "appropriate", is frequented every year since our rock increases. Example: Bouldering in the Franconian Jura is in. Despite Boulder appeal know all the spots.
Ergo has an inhibitory effect on the status of the project integrated distribution and thus relieve the rocky landscape. Furthermore, there are beautiful lines, which, because project status can not be climbed. Perhaps there are tours that can set off a new difficulty level? Adam and Co. would come as already high. But our Karl Heinz tries since 5 years on the first three trains.
It is exactly this "egocentric" aspect that Karl Heinz the first three trains schon seit Jahren immer und immer wieder versucht, veranlasst mich dazu, über meine vorangegangene Argumentation stark nach zu denken. Hierbei eröffnet sich eine weitere Dimension: Respekt. Und zwar der Respekt vor 5 Jahren der Hartnäckigkeit. Was wäre das für ein Arschtritt, wenn dann einer kommt und dem Karl Heinz zeigt, wie es richtig gemacht wird.
Ich finde, dass das schon eine recht verzwickte Sache ist. Die mit dem eigenen Projekt. Ist es möglich, eine Lösung zu erarbeiten, die ohne wenn und aber auskommen kann?
Es wäre toll, wenn sich daraus ein Diskurs entwickeln kann. Was meint Ihr?
P.S. Alle Karl Heinze und Klaus Günter sollen sich nicht auf den Schlips getreten fühlen. The two are purely fictional characters.
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